Above:
Carmen Amador
Brooch, pearls, sterling
In 1999 as she was planning her residency at the famed Massana School
in Barcelona, Clara Ines Arana was also formulating plans to bring the
work of a number of contemporary Spanish jewelers to the OXOXO Gallery
in Baltimore, Maryland. Born in Manizales, Colombia and resident in Baltimore,
Arana is a well known contemporary jeweler with a strong desire to expand
her knowledge of jewelry and to communicate her skills and vision. She
was invited to be an artist in residence at the Escola Massana, which
was founded in 1929 by Agusti Massana, a wealthy Barcelona pastry chef
with an interest in art, and since 1953 housed in the former Gothic Hospital
de la Santa Creu where it offers among other disciplines programs in sculpture,
graphic design, and ceramics as well as in jewelry. Arana's time there
was spent in round-table discussions with teachers and students where
drawings and written projects for jewelry were analyzed. In the weeks
following her residency Arana visited a number of Spanish galleries selling
contemporary jewelry and viewed the work of artists in this field. A short
list was drawn up; invitations were issued and on her return to Baltimore
Arana curated at Baltimore's OXOXO Gallery a small show featuring contemporary
jewelers, above all from the Catalonia region of Spain - a region which
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years
ago the work of the Barcelona architect and designer Antonio Gaudi and
other nineteenth- and twentieth-century artists marked as artistically
the most avant-garde in Spain. This distinction has continued to the present
day.
Contemporary
Spanish Jewelry, featured above all teachers and students from the Massana
School. Twelve jewelers showed a total of one hundred and thirty works,
both one-of-a-kind and serial-production pieces, and Baltimore provided
the venue where the featured artists introduced their jewelry to a North
American audience. A number of the students were guided in particular
by one of the School's teachers, the noted Catalan jeweler, Ramon Puig
Cuyas. Carmen Amador, whose jewelry suggesting ships and crescent moons,
pursued the theme of fantasy and surrealism. Amador teaches repousse at
the School, and her jewelry was uniformly executed in this technique.
Another Barcelona artist, Estela Cuitart, a former student, showed Urush/-covered
bracelets and necklaces. The articulation of these pieces was especially
appealing, as was that of her stunning silver and oxidized silver necklaces
which conformed beautifully to the wearer's neck. A complete departure
from the jewelry already mentioned were the whimsical and witty . brooches
of another student, Xavier Ines Monclus. A carrot on wheels topped by
a tiny house (Pastanaga Speed); a teddy bear riding a train (Juguete Complete);
a house and a tree behind a brick wall (Home Sweet Home) are some of the
subjects of the brooches executed in silver accented with cold enamel
which were on display. Two jewelers, Joaquim Capdevila and Daniel Lemmi,
whose choice of unorthodox materials such as recycled plastic and glass
define a distinctive aesthetic, furnished works which were appealingly
colorful and tactile. A blue and green necklace made of large round discs
and another of black, orange, and silver with an Art Deco sensibility
stand out. The jeweler Carles Codina, yet another Massana teacher, showed
splendid cast pendants, one decorated with a moss agate, and bracelets
carrying niello decoration. Codina is the author of a beautifully illustrated
recent book which treats the technique of jewelry. It was first issued
in Spanish as La Joyeria, and has now been published in English as The
Complete Book of Jewelry Making (New York/Lark Books, 2000). In his books
Codina shows the work of a number of the jewelers in this exhibition,
many of whom will in the future be featured artists at the OXOXO Gallery.
From Baltimore Contemporary Spanish Jewelry moved to the Thomas Mann Gallery
in New Orleans where it remained open from January 6 to February 3, 2001.
Martha
McCrory is a writer who lives in Baltimore,
Maryland.
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